How To Install An Apron Front Kitchen Sink

Favorite Matter in Our Kitchen

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We are dorsum with another DIY breakup! This is a long one, only SO worth information technology. When we decided to practise a farmhouse sink we really struggled to discover good tutorials that would assist u.s.a. figure out all of the logistics replacing our kitchen sink. So hopefully this post does just that!

This mail walks through the DIY farmhouse sink installation step by footstep. The only things missing are the final photos (we don't accept our countertops in or cabinets painted yet!)…Simply we will update with those the infinitesimal we have them! Regardless, this has already fabricated a huge deviation in our kitchen and we Dearest the sink we chose.

If you're nervous about doing this yourself, allow me reassure y'all. To me it also seemed daunting at beginning (I mean yes, information technology does require extra work), simply it actually turned out to exist i of the more manageable projects throughout our kitchen renovation. It'south completely achievable for the average person, like y'all and me!

Let's go started!

Installing Our Farmhouse Sink: Our Apron Farmhouse Sink

We think we might have found the perfect farmhouse sink. It's admittedly cute, spacious, and functional. We decided to go with a double basin, extra deep, frock front end, fireclay, farmhouse sink made by Sinkology. We went back and forth on whether to go with a single or double bowl. We loving having the double bowl for our "dishwashing" workflow, but I know in that location are lots of opinions out there on what is best!

After using the double bowl sink for over a month now, we have no complaints and would buy it again in a heartbeat!

Supplies Needed:

THE SINK! (We picked this one from Sinkology)
2 People (to elevator the sink into place)
Multi-tool (or hand saw)
Jigsaw *optional if using plywood top
Phillips Head Screw Commuter
Foursquare head drill bit (if removing & replacing pocket screws)
Pocket pigsty jig *optional/if needed (merely possibly the near useful matter you lot can own!)
Level
Drill
2×4 lumber
3/4″ plywood *optional – see below
Pencil & Compass
Woods Glue
Sand Newspaper/Sander
Regular Wrench
Plumber'southward Wrench
Spare Towels & Bucket (to catch water from disconnected plumbing)

Hire or Purchase?

If you lot don't have any of the power tools above, yous tin can ever rent them at The Home Depot. Nosotros have rented a few things over the course of this renovation, so keep that pick in mind!

P.South. Curbside pickup for the win!

I did not have all of these things on hand when I started…and I really hate beingness in the middle of a project without all the correct stuff. When it happens, I love being able to identify orders from my phone on the Home Depot app (also the app is the SINGLE fastest mode to locate an detail in store). I usually select curbside pickup or pickup lockers, and have what I need in hours, if not minutes. It's like shooting fish in a barrel and FAST. Not to mention information technology keeps me from going into the store and getting distracted in the power tools alley… ; )

Prepare the Work Area

Remove every single thing from under your kitchen cabinets. You'll need all the space you tin can become and more. Lay downward a coating or canvas on the ground where y'all volition ready the sink for measurements and earlier lifting into place. Gear up aside towels and bucket to soak up/catch water as you lot disconnect the plumbing. Plow off power at the breaker if removing a disposal–brand sure you double check this!

Nosotros had just had our former tile floors removed and were living on the bare cement subfloor, so I wasn't besides worried nigh scratching woods floors or annihilation, but definitely make sure your flooring AND your sink are protected.

Disconnect Plumbing & Remove Quondam Sink

This is a tedious procedure that I don't cover in item here, simply you'll have to disconnect everything – hot & cold water lines, dishwasher feed line, disposal (turn power off at the breaker commencement!), and drain plumbing.

As for the sink, it's an easy removal process if yours is similar to ours. In that location's a mounting subclass and squeeze system under the sink and inside the chiffonier – at that place are probably 8-12 clasps you must unscrew earlier lifting out the sink. Once washed, it'south a pretty uncomplicated removal.

Cut Out Frame

Afterwards removing the doors and hinges, look on the inside of the cabinet and frame to encounter how the inner T-frame is attached. Mine was attached with woodglue and pocket screws. Remove the pocket screws, then apply a multitool to cut perpendicular to the chief chiffonier frame. Be careful not to harm the T-frame equally you will exist re-using information technology (after resizing). You lot can always build a new one, merely it will definitely save time and materials if you can re-utilise. Our cabinets had the faux drawer panels, so I removed the lesser part of the frame and did not re-use those pieces.

Build Mountain For Sink

This was pretty simple. Follow the directions from your sink manufacturer for this part, looking for how much support your particular sink requires. Earlier you start building, determine:

How alpine is my sink?
How alpine must my support mount be, and then that when combined with my sink height, leaves ane/8″ clearance from the height of the sink to the cabinet peak? If installing an undermount sink equally we did, this gap will be filled with caulking when the countertops are installed.

Next, to build the farmhouse sink mount:

Using 2×4 lumber, I built our frame with 2 base/horizontal pieces across the lesser of the chiffonier, then placed 4 vertical legs which were secured to the base pieces and to the sides of the cabinet. I placed a batten two×4 across the back, set up in about iii/4″ to make enough room to become to the dishwasher line valve backside information technology. Information technology's a relatively simple build, just measure twice, cut once!
Check for level continuously. I checked each cavalcade support before screwing into place, and before screwing down the plywood elevation.
Here comes the optional plywood top. This was something that sounded like a good idea, and for the most part was, just is non totally necessary. I might have done it for the cool film of me standing on information technology, just to prove how sturdy and potent it is! ; ) You tin just as easily use two×4's to complete the perimeter of your frame, so long equally there is plenty border (1/ii-3/4″ at least) for the sink to rest on. If you decide to follow my plywood top footsteps, one caveat is that the 8″ holes I cut fabricated it hard for the average plumber'due south wrench to tighten the drains after on. We fabricated it work, but it was a petty more challenging. Consider making 10″ holes.
Trace and Cut Holes in the plywood. I used a big piece of carboard underneath the sink to trace the dimensions and location of the bleed holes. I used this cutout on elevation of the plywood to tell me where the eye of the holes were, so used a compass, pencil and jig saw to become to 8″ bore cutouts.

Lift Sink Into Place

This is actually where you demand a 2nd person. It was probably 150-200 lbs, and not easy to grip/lift for ane person. Ashley helped with this, and nosotros did it pretty easily. Pictured hither–she's a dominate!

Properly Space and Level

The countertop installers can really make sure this is level for the cease installation, just we knew we were a proficient 4-6 weeks away from that and I wanted to claw upwards the plumbing to give us a performance sink. And then I used a shim under one corner to make information technology level.

How Far Past the Countertop?

The most common countertop overhang is ane.5″. We wanted our sink to go almost 1/two″ past the countertop, so nosotros positioned our sink then that it would go 2″ past the chiffonier face frame/front of the chiffonier.

By the mode – the cardboard cutout was really helpful here since we had to cut the sink holes before lifting it into identify. Information technology let us play around with the overhang, go comfortable, and so marker the holes, taking into consideration the cabinet walls, edges of the sink, base chiffonier and top of the cabinet.

Almost washed!

Replace Modified Frame and Doors

Frame

Measure your new cabinet superlative. Find the T-frame you removed and saved earlier. In my case, I just had to cut the finish of the middle frame/cavalcade to adjust the new height of the sink and where the sink will sink. I drilled two new pocket holes since I had cut the old ones off. The right and left sides on each finish (peak of the T) kept the same width and did not need to exist cut. I used forest glue at all the joints and pocket holes + screws to secure into place.

How To Resize Kitchen Cabinet Doors

I followed some practiced advise I received from a friend and chiffonier maker and the result was flawless! Go on in mind we are having our cabinets PAINTED, then that's why this process works. If you accept fine hardwood doors and won't exist painting them, you lot may want to connect with an adept on how to handle. I documented as much of it every bit possible through photos beneath. Practise the following for EACH door:

Measure how large the new door size needs to be. Write it down.
Crosscut a piece off the end of each door, making sure the cutoff is non just the frame, but a small sliver of the door console. It doesn't and shouldn't take much of the panel, but some panel lip is needed. So you'll have 1 piece consisting of near of the door, and 1 small slice of but the finish (top).
Accept a measurement of the new door size.
Practice some math to figure out how much yous demand to cut from the larger door piece that, when combined with the smaller piece, is the same equally the new door size. Make the cut to the larger piece, removing the backlog height.
Woods glue the 2 pieces together (big piece and end) and secure with clamps. Make sure the frame and panel pieces are aligned as much as possible for a truthful flush mountain. Allow sit for 24 hours.
If y'all're worried about how this will expect, don't. 1) If you lot left just a small lip on the smaller piece it will non be noticeable on the finished cabinet door 1) because of the shadow cast for the door frame over the cut edge, you'll probably never notice it. two) because you tin can touch on up small inconsistences with sanding & wood filler as needed. iii) After priming and painting information technology will look brand new!

Reconnect Plumbing

Some of this could be washed before reinstalling the face frame, but either style is fine. I installed the new sink drains, reconnected pies & waterlines, and reinstalled the disposal. We bought a cheap plastic faucet to utilise while we wait for countertops and the new fancy faucet to arrive. Run some water and examination for leaks. One time information technology all checks out, and your sink isn't filled with h2o (meaning everything is draining correctly!), you've officially installed your new farmhouse sink!

DONE!

Let me know if yous have whatever questions on the installation below. Thanks as always for reading and stay tuned for more updates and FINISHED kitchen photos soon!

Shop this exact sink!

P.S. We are autonomously of a group of DIY Bloggers/YouTubers that are all working on projects throughout the year, and so you'll have to pop over to the #THDDoerProject to see everyone'southward progress! Also, if you are working on a DIY use the hashtag #DoersChallenge and then we can follow along!

STAY TUNED:

Kitchen Remodel Posts:

DIY Kitchen Renovation: The Plan

Choosing Chiffonier Pigment Colors

Progress Update

How to Install a Farmhouse Sink

Source: https://ashleybrooke.com/installing-our-farmhouse-sink/

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